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Post by tassmurf on Nov 25, 2015 18:33:58 GMT 10
Hi all,
looking for some advice.
The VT750 is the first cruiser I've had, previously had sports tourers. Clutch cable snapped with only 40k on the odometer. From what I can see the bike wasn't particularly well serviced by the previous owner. Replaced the cable with an OEM replacement. I find that I can either get the cable to be slack or tight, there doesn't seem to any room to adjust. I've followed the cable routing on the service manual, so would it be unusual for a clutch to need replacing at 40k or is there a secret to adjusting the cable.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2015 5:50:35 GMT 10
Seems a bit strange .Double check you have the cable relaxed down to the clutch. There is a adjustment i think on the casing . Not real good at mechanics . Should have slight freeplay up top . Shouldnt need to replace clutch at those ks unless its had a real hard life .Ive done 54 thousand ks and is still ok. Sure others will chime in that are more mechanically minded in this area .
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Post by tassmurf on Nov 26, 2015 11:17:51 GMT 10
Thanks Ray, I've followed the cable routing pics (no problems being caught or kinked), the clutch cable itself moves freely, just need to work out is there's something I'm doing wrong.
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Post by SPINAL on Nov 26, 2015 12:29:36 GMT 10
Thanks Ray, I've followed the cable routing pics (no problems being caught or kinked), the clutch cable itself moves freely, just need to work out is there's something I'm doing wrong. you couldn't upload a quick video so we can see what you mean exactly. if you can using photo bucket is the easiest and quickest way. cheers, spinal
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Post by tassmurf on Nov 26, 2015 18:11:20 GMT 10
Just come back in from taking some pictures of the cable. Checked the part number on the replacement (MEG-A41 5A29) against the snapped original (MEG-A40 7125), looks like the Honda dealer has supplied the wrong replacement.
I've checked the receipt stapled to the packaging. Receipt says they sold me MEG-A40, cable they supplied is MEG-A41. I'll call the shop in the morning to clarify. If they tell me they've sold me the correct cable I'll attach more pics. You'll see from the 1st picture that I've had to move the adjuster all the way in just to get the cable to catch. The adjuster at the clutch lever is also screwed all the way in. I actually asked the bloke in the parts department if they needed the VIN number to make sure they were supplying the right cable, but took his word that the model and year was enough information for them.
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Post by SPINAL on Nov 26, 2015 20:39:17 GMT 10
Just come back in from taking some pictures of the cable. Checked the part number on the replacement (MEG-A41 5A29) View Attachment against the snapped original (MEG-A40 7125),View Attachment looks like the Honda dealer has supplied the wrong replacement.
I've checked the receipt stapled to the packaging. Receipt says they sold me MEG-A40, cable they supplied is MEG-A41. I'll call the shop in the morning to clarify. If they tell me they've sold me the correct cable I'll attach more pics. You'll see from the 1st picture that I've had to move the adjuster all the way in just to get the cable to catch. The adjuster at the clutch lever is also screwed all the way in. I actually asked the bloke in the parts department if they needed the VIN number to make sure they were supplying the right cable, but took his word that the model and year was enough information for them.
that was going to be my next ? is it the right cable, sounded like it was short. good luck should be ok with the right one, cheers, spinal.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2015 20:55:04 GMT 10
Just come back in from taking some pictures of the cable. Checked the part number on the replacement (MEG-A41 5A29) View Attachment against the snapped original (MEG-A40 7125),View Attachment looks like the Honda dealer has supplied the wrong replacement.
I've checked the receipt stapled to the packaging. Receipt says they sold me MEG-A40, cable they supplied is MEG-A41. I'll call the shop in the morning to clarify. If they tell me they've sold me the correct cable I'll attach more pics. You'll see from the 1st picture that I've had to move the adjuster all the way in just to get the cable to catch. The adjuster at the clutch lever is also screwed all the way in. I actually asked the bloke in the parts department if they needed the VIN number to make sure they were supplying the right cable, but took his word that the model and year was enough information for them.
that was going to be my next ? is it the right cable, sounded like it was short. good luck should be ok with the right one, cheers, spinal. Well done Tassy. May of solved ta own prob mate. Would seem logical .Must be a shorter cable by a bee,s appendage .Dont want to get into trouble from a bee .
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Post by tassmurf on Nov 27, 2015 10:38:49 GMT 10
Called the Honda dealership this morning to check the cable. The parts department reckon the MEG-A41 supercedes the MEG-A40 and should fit as long as the bike doesn't have any mods to the bars. Original bars, so it should fit.
Next step was to take the cable out of the equation. I can change up and down gear with the engine off, except for selecting 1st, need to rock the bike back and forward to get into 1st. The fact I have to move the bike back and forward to select 1st makes me think it may actually be the clutch.
I've disconnected the cable from the clutch lifter arm and attempted to change gear with the clutch lifter arm forward - still have the same problem changing gear. Next attempt, clutch lifter arm forward and side stand up (front brake applied just in case), started the engine and selected 2nd gear - engine stalled. I've also tried to start the bike with the bike in gear and the clutch lifter arm forward - doesn't start and tries to move forward.
As it appears there's a problem with the clutch, next choice is do I follow the manual and check it myself (will be a very slow process) or book it into a bike shop. The workshop manual gives all the tolerances for springs and plates. It actually doesn't look that difficult a task, specialised tools would be the stumbling block, so I'll have to have a think about it.
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Post by SPINAL on Nov 27, 2015 11:30:54 GMT 10
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2015 14:01:46 GMT 10
Good run down that SPinal. Tassmurf ,the shadows do tend to have trouble from 1st to neutral or 2nd at times .Some have probs getting back to neutral at lights . I dont ,mine seems to slot lovely . Me ,i would get a good bike mechanic that i trust to have a quick look then proceed from there . Mind you iff you are a tab savvy on mechanic,s like it sounds well then go for it . The thrill of doing your own work is like a good ride sometimes . Definately chuck the other springs in as Spinal suggested . Look at it in the long term ,iff you do it now ,you will have no probs down the track for quite a while. Change oils whilst doing the clutch and or springs . . Get in contact with other shadow riders there ,they must know a good mechanic or you should i suppose if you have ridden other machines . Ian Travers ; Hobart Tasmania State Co-Ordinator ; manager1_2@yahoo.com Former state Co Pete ; Penguin Tasmania ; scorpiopete@hotmail.com Cheers RAy
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Post by tassmurf on Nov 27, 2015 18:24:32 GMT 10
Thanks for the links SPINAL, that saves me time searching.
cheers
Richard
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Post by tassmurf on Nov 27, 2015 18:34:56 GMT 10
Good run down that SPinal. Tassmurf ,the shadows do tend to have trouble from 1st to neutral or 2nd at times .Some have probs getting back to neutral at lights . I dont ,mine seems to slot lovely . Me ,i would get a good bike mechanic that i trust to have a quick look then proceed from there . Mind you iff you are a tab savvy on mechanic,s like it sounds well then go for it . The thrill of doing your own work is like a good ride sometimes . Definately chuck the other springs in as Spinal suggested . Look at it in the long term ,iff you do it now ,you will have no probs down the track for quite a while. Change oils whilst doing the clutch and or springs . . Get in contact with other shadow riders there ,they must know a good mechanic or you should i suppose if you have ridden other machines . Ian Travers ; Hobart Tasmania State Co-Ordinator ; manager1_2@yahoo.com Former state Co Pete ; Penguin Tasmania ; scorpiopete@hotmail.com Cheers RAy Thanks Ray, I'll likely replace the clutch myself.
Its been a few years since I stripped an FJ1200 down to the frame for powder coating and then rebuilt the bus. The clutch does look fairly easy and the workshop manual is quite informative. One of my workmates has a mechanic for a son-in-law, so there should be some informed assistance if required. Talked to a bike mechanic today, he agreed with my observations, couldn't commit to an estimated price without checking the bike, but reckoned it would be expensive by the time you add in parts and labour. I'd also have to get it towed to the workshop (the cost of the tow is almost half the price of the parts).
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Post by SPINAL on Dec 10, 2015 9:32:01 GMT 10
Good run down that SPinal. Tassmurf ,the shadows do tend to have trouble from 1st to neutral or 2nd at times .Some have probs getting back to neutral at lights . I dont ,mine seems to slot lovely . Me ,i would get a good bike mechanic that i trust to have a quick look then proceed from there . Mind you iff you are a tab savvy on mechanic,s like it sounds well then go for it . The thrill of doing your own work is like a good ride sometimes . Definately chuck the other springs in as Spinal suggested . Look at it in the long term ,iff you do it now ,you will have no probs down the track for quite a while. Change oils whilst doing the clutch and or springs . . Get in contact with other shadow riders there ,they must know a good mechanic or you should i suppose if you have ridden other machines . Ian Travers ; Hobart Tasmania State Co-Ordinator ; manager1_2@yahoo.com Former state Co Pete ; Penguin Tasmania ; scorpiopete@hotmail.com Cheers RAy Thanks Ray, I'll likely replace the clutch myself.
Its been a few years since I stripped an FJ1200 down to the frame for powder coating and then rebuilt the bus. The clutch does look fairly easy and the workshop manual is quite informative. One of my workmates has a mechanic for a son-in-law, so there should be some informed assistance if required. Talked to a bike mechanic today, he agreed with my observations, couldn't commit to an estimated price without checking the bike, but reckoned it would be expensive by the time you add in parts and labour. I'd also have to get it towed to the workshop (the cost of the tow is almost half the price of the parts).
Any update on how things went mate, we love follow ups for anyone else looking at having clutch problems. cheers, spinal.
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Post by tassmurf on Dec 11, 2015 18:58:37 GMT 10
Hi Spinal, just got a set of digital vernier calipers to check all the tolerances when I take the clutch apart. Not sure if I need any special tools to remove the clutch, but if the weathers fine I'll find that out tomorrow. I don't have a shed, so hopefully the Tasmanian weather gods are good to me. Stopped in to the local bike shop for prices on springs and plates, $180 for EBC springs and friction plates. Barnett clutch parts have been recommended (local shop can't source a complete kit), I don't need to put too much extra to get them delivered direct from the states, so will likely order them online. I'll update as I go along.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2015 7:36:59 GMT 10
Happy mechanicing . Idf you get some pics as you go would be great to make a tutorial.
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