Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2010 20:52:20 GMT 10
Hi Riders found this on our sister site ,might of interest might not.
Cheers Ray
Set the wheel in the axle on a couple of axle stands (ideally as level as you can get) if you haven't access to stands then use a couple of work benches or similar or even blocks to rest the axle spindle on as long as it is level. Make sure all the old weights are removed and slowly spin the wheel until it stops on its own. Mark top centre and rotate the other way until it stops and again mark top centre then and move the wheel back quarter of a turn and release - the wheel should return back to the mark or close to. Then move the wheel quarter turn forward and release - again it should return back to the mark. If there is slight difference - mark the wheel top centre both times and split the difference. With the mark at top centre you need to add weight onto the spoke or on the rim (in the case of alloys) directly under the mark with either tape in place or fasten loosely not permanent at this stage. With the weight in place turn the wheel quarter a turn one way and release and the same again the other way and release. If the wheel rotates back to or near the marked position of the weight you need to increase the weight size or add more weight, if it rotates so that the weight is now at the bottom then you have added to much weight. When you have the wheel correctly balanced then when you rotate one way a quarter turn and the other way a quarter turn and the wheel does not rotate up or down then the wheel is balanced. If the wheel moves only slightly then it will be as near as damn it right and ok to replace the wheel. Grease the axle spindle before you start to improve movement and accuracy. When happy permanently fix the weights in place. Wheels are set like this by racing motor mechanics and as accurate as most machines and a lot cheaper plus you can do it yourself. Hope this helps and can be used for both back and front wheels.
Otherwise it's off to the stealers.
Cheers Ray
Set the wheel in the axle on a couple of axle stands (ideally as level as you can get) if you haven't access to stands then use a couple of work benches or similar or even blocks to rest the axle spindle on as long as it is level. Make sure all the old weights are removed and slowly spin the wheel until it stops on its own. Mark top centre and rotate the other way until it stops and again mark top centre then and move the wheel back quarter of a turn and release - the wheel should return back to the mark or close to. Then move the wheel quarter turn forward and release - again it should return back to the mark. If there is slight difference - mark the wheel top centre both times and split the difference. With the mark at top centre you need to add weight onto the spoke or on the rim (in the case of alloys) directly under the mark with either tape in place or fasten loosely not permanent at this stage. With the weight in place turn the wheel quarter a turn one way and release and the same again the other way and release. If the wheel rotates back to or near the marked position of the weight you need to increase the weight size or add more weight, if it rotates so that the weight is now at the bottom then you have added to much weight. When you have the wheel correctly balanced then when you rotate one way a quarter turn and the other way a quarter turn and the wheel does not rotate up or down then the wheel is balanced. If the wheel moves only slightly then it will be as near as damn it right and ok to replace the wheel. Grease the axle spindle before you start to improve movement and accuracy. When happy permanently fix the weights in place. Wheels are set like this by racing motor mechanics and as accurate as most machines and a lot cheaper plus you can do it yourself. Hope this helps and can be used for both back and front wheels.
Otherwise it's off to the stealers.